Machine for making and applying spangles



Dec. 1""1, 1945. v c. BUSTAMANTE MACHINE FOR MAKING AND APPLYING SPANGLES 2 Sheets-Sheet l Filed Aug. 22, 1942 25K ,MM Vmom ma Q ,IMA w fw a f ad@ fm w I/ /1 www f fr t l Dec- 11,194 f .Y Lc. BUSTAMANTE 2,390,539,"

MACHINE FOR MKING ANDV APPLYING SPANGLES Filed Aug. 22, 1942 y 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 www5 Patented Dec. 11, 1945 MACHINE FOR MAKING AND APPLYING SPANGLES Cesar Bustamante, New York, N. Y., assigner of one-third to Sol Bookstein,

Belle Harbor, N. Y.,

and one-third to Boris Weisman, New York, N. Y.

Application August 22, 1942, serial No. 455313 l(c1. i12-99) 15 Claims.

to spangle machines and provision of an improved This invention relates has for its object the spangle machine. 1 Machines have heretofore been proposed for sewing pre-formed spangles to fabric. Such machines, however, are objectionable because of the fact that the spangles are tiny discs, very thin and very light, `and consequently quite diicult tomanipulate or to arrange in any regular order so that they can be handled by a feeding mechanism,A Mechanism for handling such articles is apt to be complicated, expensive to make and unreliable in operation. V It has also been heretofore proposed to partially pre-form the spangles, leavingthem connected together in a continuous strip which was fed to the stitching mechanism. Associated with,

this mechanism was a reciprocating knife which severed the individual spangles from the strip after the needle had entered the hole in the center of the spangle in the operationof sewing the spangle onto the fabric., This machine necessitated that cutting mechanism be positioned in close proximity to the needle ofthe sewing mechanism, and this was apt to lead to considerable diiiiculty. Moreover, the character of designs possible with such a machine was limited because of the fact that it would be impossible to sew the spangles onto the fabric in overlapped relation `to one another.

The object of the present invention is to pro-,

vide .a spangle` machine which is capable of both manufacturing the spangles from suitable material andA applying them to the fabric or other sheet material to which it may be desired to attach them. i

More particularly, the object of the present invention is to provide a machine in which the individual spangles are completely formed from suitable material and then transferred individually from the forming mechanism to the sewing mechanism without `losing control of the individual spangles.

A feature of the invention also is the provision of `a spangle lmachine having forming or punching mechanism Which is disposed suiciently resideration of the accompanying drawings which illustrate, by way of example, a spangle machine arranged to punch the spangles out of a narrow work strip and sew them to sheet material which if consists of dress fabric.

In these drawings: Fig. 1 is a combined plan and sectional View showing the punching and transferring ,mecha-` nism in plan, the section being taken horizon-` side of the sewing mechanism;

mote from Ythe sewing mechanism so that the design of the punching mechanism will not be restricted or'impaired by its proximity to the sewingmechanism. 4 v

A further object of the invention is to provide a ,spangle machine which is of rugged construction `and canbe used for long periods of time with a minimum of servicing. I

The invention will be understood from a con- Fig. 3 is also a view in elevation but looking' from the front; A

Fig. 4 is a detailed sectionalview of the punching mechanism taken on line 4-4 of Fig. 1, but with the parts in a different Iposition; and

Figs. 5, 6 and 7 are views of fragments of sheet material having spangles applied to them in different spacing.

Referring now to these drawings, the machine has an L-shaped frame I which is suitably mounted on the frame of a sewing machine. The sewing machine is provided with suitable stitchforming mechanism including a vertically rei ciprocating needle 2 and a presserfoot 3, the needle being operatively connected in any suitable manner with the horizontal main shaft 4 lof the sewing machine, these being the only parts of the sewing machine illustrated. The sewing machine mechanism may be of any appropriate construction, it being understood that the needle 2, presser foot 3 andother parts of the stitch-v forming mechanismy make one reciprocation and form one complete stitch for each revolution4 of the sewing machine main shaft 4.

One leg of L-shaped frame I rotatably sup-V ports an operating shaft 5, this shaft being driven from sewingmachine main shaft 4 through a chain 4a and cooperating sprockets having the same number of teeth, thereby causing shaft 5 to rotate in timed relation to shaft 4. On the end of shaft 5 there is a small crank having` a crank pin 6 which engages a slotted opening 'l at the rear end of a rock arm 8 so as to impart a continuous rocking movement to this, arm.

Arm 8 is-pinned as shown at 9 to a short shaft I0 which has a bearing in the short arm of the L-shaped frame member I. On the opposite end of shaft I0 and pinned thereto at II `so as to rock with arm 8 there is a feed actuating member I2 (Fig. 2), which will be referred Ato laterfon.

The front end of rock arm 8 actuates a vertically reciprocating punch carrier member I3. This member viewed from the front is bifurcated at its upper portion and connected by means of a pin I5 to actuating member 8 which is slotted as shown at I4 in Fig. 2. Pin I5 is squared at its central portion so as to t the slot I4 and round at each end so as to fit round holes in thei bifurcated portion of the punch carrier.

Mounted in the lower surface of punch carrier I3 there are two punches-a small punch l`6 and a large punch I1. These punches are both round, and slide in openings in a guide bar I8 which projects horizontally (Fig. 4) from the lower edge of a downward extension I9 formed on the short arm of L-shaped frame member I.

A die 26 is mounted on the lower surface of guide I8 but between them there is arranged a rectangular passageway for a work strip 2I from which the spangles are to be formed and punched.

In order to guide the rear end of punch carrier I3, a guide rod 2-2 is fixed in guide bar I8 and Yextends upwardly. An opening in the lower surface of carrier I3 fits the upper end of guide rod 22 with a sliding t.

Mounted on punch carrier I3 ahead of the two punches I6 and I1 is a shaping punch 23 which coacts with a dish-like formation 24 (Fig. 2) in the upper surface of die 26. Shaping tool 23 may be heated rif desired by means of an electric heater 25 to which are attached conductors 26.

The spangles may be formed out of plastic, metal or other suitable material. Also this material may have any appropriate thickness, usually a few thousands of an inch. The spangles also may have any-appropriate diameter, but the customary diameter is from 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch.

The work strip 2|, of suitable thickness and v width and of indeterminate length, passes from left to right (Fig. 2) through the passagewai7 2i above referred to between the upper surface of die 20 and the lower surface of guide bar I8. It then passes beneath the shaping punch 23 and. the two punches I6 and I1 and from thence the waste strip passes around a guide pin or roller 21 around the surface of a feed roller 28 and between this roller and a pressure roller 29, after which it is wound in any-desired manner onto a take-up roll, not shown. It will be understood that punch 6 forms the hole or perforation which is to be at the center of each spangle and. the punch I 1 blanks out the spangles with the perforations at their centers.

Pressure' roller 29 rotates freely on a shaft 30 which projects to the left (Fig. 3) from a supporting arm 3 I which is pivoted at 32 to frame member 1. A helical spring 33, the tension of which can be adjusted as shown in Fig. 2, is provided to regulate the amount of pressure between rollers 29 and 28.

Main feed roll 2'8V is pinned to an actuating shaft 34 which is mounted for rotation on frame member I and which is given a step-by-step advance movement each time the punch carrier I3 reciprocates. For this purpose a pinion 35 is loosely mounted on shaft 34 (Figs. 1 and 3) which is provided on one side with an extension having in its face ratchet teeth 36. The teeth of pinion 35 are engaged by the teeth 31 of a gear sector on the outer end of one of the two arms of' feed actuating member I2. This mem- Aber, as previously described, rocks simultaneously with the rocking movement of rock arm 8.

The ratchet teeth 36 are engaged by similar` teeth in a ratchet member 38' which is held in in the position in which foot 3 and in alinement with needle 2'.

ward stroke of carrier I3 pinion 35 is rotated in f the opposite direction and the coacting ratchet teeth slide over one another, ratchet member 38 yielding outwardly to permit this action. Backward rotation of ratchet member 38 is prevented by the adjustment o'f helical spring 33 to provide sufcient friction by means of pressure roll 29 to prevent such movement. Since at the bottom of the stroke of punch carrier I3 the punches I6 and I1 engage the work strip 2| and prevent its forward movement, a suitable amount of lost motion or back-lash between the ratchet teeth 36 and those on member 38 is provided, as indicated at 42. Hence the feeding movement of feed rolls 23 and 29 does not commence until after punch I1 has been raised sufliciently to release the work strip 2I (see Fig. 4)

It will be understood that the spangles are attached to a fabric sheet by means of the stitchforming or sewing mechanism including needle 2 and presser foot 3. In order to attach the i spangles to fabric 43 without losing control of them, a transferring device or carrier mechanism is provided which receives the individual spangles as they are punched from the work strip 2l by the punching mechanism, holds them. they are delivered by the punching mechanism andy transfers them while continuing to maintain them in such position, to the sewing mechanism. and `pif-'eferably directly onto the fabric 43 beneath the prelsler is transferring device or carrier mechanism indicated generally .by numeral 44 and comprises a swinging arm 45 and a stationary guard member 46 preferably arcuate in form.A Y

Swinging arml 45 is provided at its outer iid with a spangle receptacle or cup-like formation 41 adapted to receive an individual spangle such as indicated by numeral At the instant the large or blanking out punch I1 pierces the work strip, swinging arm 45 is in the dotted position shown in Fig.y l, receptacle 41 being directly loeneath the opening in die 2 0 with which I1 cooperates, as indicated by dotted lires iri- Fig. 2. As soon as the spangle is released fif'oirl strip 2| by punch I1 it falls into cup 41 this position, and arm 45 then swings to the full lineposition shown in Figs. 1, 2 and As the spangle receptacle 41 moves out from beneath die meinber 2!) its upper surface passes into contact with the lower downwardly sloping surface 49` of arcuate guard member 46 which holds the spangle in receptacle 41 during the movement of arm 45 and prevents the spangle from being dislodged.

The bottom ofdie 2l) is above the table surface 5I) of the sewing machine, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3 so that during this transfer' movement the spangle has to be lowered a substantial distance. Ihis is accomplished'by making a portiol of swinging arm 45 eXi'ble and ifi-order' er' to control receptacle 41' this riempie po 1on1 is formed as" a lateral and preferably arcuate cir"- tension, as shown in Fig, 1', at the' outer end of a' radial arm section. The inner end of this radial arm section of swinging arm 45 is secured to a Avertical supporting post I. The end of the flexible portion of the swinging arm 45 in which spangle receptacle 41 is located is preferably made of thin metal so that it may swing beneath the presser foot 3 and carry the spangle 48 to a position where the hole in the spangle is in alignment with needle 2. spangle receptacle 41 has a substantially U shape in plan view, as shown in Fig. 1, the bottom of the U fitting the curvature of the spangle.

The bottom of the receptacle hasa U-shaped slot to permit the passage of the needle 2 through the spangle while it is still held by receptacle 41. Guard member 46 is preferably an edgewise mounted arcuate strip so as to provide rigidity and enters betweenthe toes of the presser foot 3 so las to terminate in close proximity to needle 2. It may be secured in position by means of screws 52 on the side of guide bar I8 of the punching mechanism.

It will be understood that swinging arm 45 carries spangle receptacle 41 to the sewing mechanism an instant previous to the entrance of the downwardly moving needle 2 through the aperture in the spangle 48, holds the spangle in position while the needle enters the spangle aperture and thereafter returns the spangle receptacle '41 to the punching mechanism, that is. to the dotted position shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The actuation of swinging arm 45 in this manner is accomplished by means of a spur gear sector 53 which is secured to vertical shaft 5I which supports arm 45. This shaft is mounted in suitable bearings in the frame I and sector 53is engaged by gear teethV 54 on the face of the substantially vertical arm of feed actuating member I2, as shown particularly in Fig. 2. As this actuating member is keyed to shaft I0 and therefore rocks simultaneously with rock arm B, and since needle 2 makes its downward stroke while the punching headY I3 is making its upward stroke, or at the top thereof, spangle receptacle 41 is at its outer position beneath needle 2 at the time that actuating crank 6 is at the bottom of its stroke. Hence the dwell of this crank mechanism holds the spangle receptacle in stationary position, as described above, while needle 2 enters the opening of the spangle.

It will be understood that when it is desired to attach the spangles 48 in overlapping relation, `as shown in Fig. 5. the gear train which interconnects the main shaft 4 of the sewing machine mechanism with' operating shaft 5 will have a 1:1 ratio so that shaft 5 will make one revolution for each revolution of the sewing mechanism. This will cause the punching mechanism and transfer device to form and supply to the sewing mechanism one spangle for each operation of the sewing mechanism, that is, for each downward stroke of needle 2.

When it is desired to sew the spangles on in substantially tangential position. as indicated in Fig. 6, the gear ratio of the gear train above mentioned will be 2:1, so that the needle 2 will take two strokes for each operation of the spangleforming and transfer mechanism. This will place one stitch, as indicated at 55, at the center of each spangle and a second stitch 56 between adjacent spangles. Further, should it be desired to increase the spacing of the spangles, as shown in Fig. 7, this can be done by increasing the gear ratio of the gear train by any desired amount. That is to say, the gear ratio can be such that needle 2 of the sewing mechanism makes 3, 4 or any 'desired number of strokes to one revolution of shaft 5, or one operation of the sp-angleforming and transfer mechanism. In Fig. 7 the gear ratio is 1:3, that is, there are three revolutions of sewing machine shaft 4 Ato each single revolution of operating shaft 5, and accordingly two stitches 51 are placed between each of the spangles.

By means of the present invention a machine has been provided which is capable of forming and attaching spangles in substantially a single operation, that is to say, the spangles are punched from a strip of suitable material transferred from the punching mechanism to a sewing mechanism and sewed onto the fabric as they are individually punched and without releasing control of them. This greatly reduces both the cost of manufacture of the spangles, and the `cost of sewing them on the fabric, or, infother words, it reduces the over-al1 cost of Spangled dress fabric.

It will be understood that changes may be made in the construction of the machine illustrated and described above without departing from the spirit of the invention. the scope of which is set forth in the accompanying claims.

I claim:

1. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for sewing spangles to said material, mechanism for forming complete individual spangles, a carrier for receiving an individual spangle from the vforming mechanism and transferring it to the sewing mechanism, and means for actuating the forming mechanism and carrier in timed relation to the sewing mechanism to transfer complete individual spangles to the sewing mechanism as they are formed.

2. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for attaching spangles to said material, mechanism for forming complete individual spangles from a blank strip, mechanism for feeding such strip to the forming mechanism, a carrier for receiving an' individual spangle from the forming mechanism and transferring it to the attaching mechanism;

and means for actuating said forming mechanism', said feeding mechanism and said carrier in timed relation to the attaching mechanism to transfer complete individual spangles to the attaching mechanism'as they are formed.

3. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for sewing spangles to said material, punching mechanism for forming complete individual spangles, mechanisms for feeding work to the punching mechanism, a device for receiving an individual spangle from the punching mechanism and transferring it to the sewing mechanism, and means for operating the punching mechanism, work feeding mechanism and the transferring device in timed relation to the sewing mecha.- nism to transfer complete individual spangles to the sewing mechanism as they are punched from the work. j

4. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for sewing .spangles to said material, mechanism `for punching complete individual spangles fromV a blank strip, mechanism-for feeding such strip to the punching mechanism, a device for receiving individual spangles from the punching mechanism and transferring them to the sewing mechanism, and means for operating the punching mechanism, strip-feeding mechanism and the transferring device in ltimed relation to the sewing mechanism to transfer complete individual spangles to the sewing mechanism as they are punched from the strip.

5. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for sewing individual spangles to said material, mechanism for forming individual spangles at a point remote from and out of the plane of the sewing mechanism, a yieldable carrier for transferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating the forming mechanism and the carrier in timed relation to the sewing mechanism to transfer the individual spangles to the sewing mechanism as they are formed, and means operable during said transfer for shifting the yieldable carrier from the plane of the forming mechanism to the plane of the sewing mechanism.

6. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet materials mechanism for attaching individual spangles to said material, mechanism for forming individual spangles, a carrier mechanism for transferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism to the attaching mechanism including a receptacle for receiving an individual spangle from the forming mechanism and delivering the spangle to the attaching mechanism, means for actuating said mechanisms in timed relation to one another to transfer the individual spangles to the attaching mechanism as Athey are formed, and a stationary guard member cooperating with said spangle receptacle to hold the spangle within the receptacle as it is carried to the attaching mechanism.

7. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for sewing individual spangles to said material, mechanism'for forming individual spangles at a point remote from and out of the plane of the sewing mechanism, carrier mechanism for transferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism to the sewing mechanism including an oscillating flexible arm, and means for actuating said arm in timed relation to the forming mechanism and sewing mechanism to transfer the individual spangles to the sewing mechanism as they are formed.

8. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for attaching individual spangles to said material, mechanism for forming individual spangles at a point remote from and out of the plane of the attaching mechanism, a yieldable carrier'mechanism for transferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism to the attaching mechanism, means for actuating said mechanisms in timed relation to one another to transfer the individual spangles to the attaching mechanism as they are formed, said carrier having a receptacle for receiving a spangle from the forming mechanism and delivering it to the attaching mechanism, and a stationary guard member cooperating with said yieldable carrier to hold the spangle within said receptacle as it is carried to the attaching mechanism and serving as acam to shift the yieldable carrier from the plane of the forming mechanism to that of the attaching mechanism.

l9. Inv a machine fol making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for sewing individual spangles to said material, mechanism for forming individual spangles at a point remote from and out of the plane of the sewing mechanism, carrier mechanism fcrtransferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism to the sewing mechanism including an osA cillating resilient arm having at its outer end a receptacle for receiving a spangle Vfrom the forming mechanism and delivering it to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said mechanisms in timed relation to one another to transfer the individual spangles to the sewing mechanism as they are formed, and a stationary guard member cooperating with said receptacle to hold the spangle therewithin as it is carried to the sewing mechanism and serving as a cam to bend said resilient arm and shift said receptacle from the plane of the forming mechanism to the plane of the sewing mechanism. y

10. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism forl sewing individual spangles to said material including a presser foot maintained in engagement vwith the surface thereof, mechanism for forming individual spangles at a point remote from said presser foo-t and out o-f the plane of the sheet material, carrier mechanism for transferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism t0 the sewing mechanism including a flexible arm having at its end a receptacle for receiving a spangle from the formingmechanism and delivering it to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said arm in timed relation to the form-- ing mechanism and sewing mechanism to transfer the individual spangles as they are formed, the path of said receptacle terminating at a point beneath the presser foot, and a stationary guard member having a cam-like surface coactingwith the upper surface of said receptacle toguide the same from the plane of the forming mechanism to the plane of the material beneath the presser foot and to hold the spangle within said receptacle.

11. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for forming individual spangles at a point remote from the point of attachment cf the spangles to the sheet material, a carrier for transferring the spangles as they are formed to the point of attachment having a receptacle for receiving a spangle from the forming mechanism and delivering the spangle to the sheet material at said point of attachment, means for moving said carrier to transfer the spangles to said point of attachment, and a stationary guard member cooperating with said receptacle to hold the spangle within the same as it is carried to the point of attachment. Y Y

12. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for form.- ng individual spangles at a point remote from the point of attachment of the spangles to the sheet material, a carrier for transferring the spangles as they are formed to thepoint of attachment comprising a receptacle having an open side for-receiving a spangie from the forming mechanism and an open end for delivering the spangle to the sheet material at said point of attachment, means for moving said carrier t0 transfer the spangles to the said point ci attachment, and a stationary guard member cooperating with the open side of said receptacle to hold the spangle within the seme as it is car-` ried to the point of attachment.

13. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material. mechanism for Vattaching individual spangles to said material, mechanism for forming individual spangles, said mechanisms being in different planes, a carrier for transferring the individualv spangles from the forming mechanism to the attaching mecha- 14. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for sewing individual spangles to said material including a presser foot mounted in engagement with the surface thereof, mechanism for forming individual spangles at a point remote from said presser foot, carrier mechanism for transferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism to the sewing mechanism including an arm' having at its end a receptacle for receiving a spangle from the forming mechanism and delivering it to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said arm in timed relation to the forming mechanism andfsewing mechanism to transfer the individual spangles as they are formed, the path of said receptacle terminating at a point beneath the presser foot, and a stationary guard member coacting with the upper surface of said receptacle to hold the spangle Within said receptacle during said transfer. i

15. In a machine for making and applying spangles to sheet material, mechanism for attaching individual spangles to said material, mechanism for forming individual spangles at a point remote from and out of the plane of the attaching mechanism, a yieIdable carrierA for transferring the individual spangles from the forming mechanism to the attaching mechanism, means for actuating said mechanisms in timed relation to one another to transfer the individual spangles to the attaching mechanism as they are formed and to attach them to the sheet material, s aid carrier comprising a radial portion having at its outer end a laterally extending portion which terminates in a receptacle for receiving a spangle from the forming mechanism and delivering it to the attaching mechanism, and an arcuate stationary guard member coacting with the upper surface of said receptacle'to hold the spangle Within the same as it is carried to the attaching mechanism and serving as a cam to lower the said receptacle from the plane of the forming mechanism to that of the attaching mechanism.

CESAR BUSTAMANTE. 

